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The successful outcome of any
holiday adventure will often be dependent upon the effort
placed into prior planning.
And when it came the time for Robert and myself to travel
to Far North Queenslands tropical city of Cairns, we
called in the experts.
In this age of convenience, doesnt it make sense to
hook up with a licenced travel agent?
Tina Redmond of Cairns Travel and Sportfishing ensured that
we would jam-pack our four days in Cairns with something special.
High on our agenda was wanting to experience the Norths
majestic tropical rainforests as well as to fish the cool,
clear freshwater streams for Sooty Grunter and Jungle Perch,
species we couldnt catch at home. Being a fair dinkum
local meant that Tina knew the ins and outs of the city and
surrounding areas and had plenty of potential locations for
us to visit.
We
had previously arranged to have on hand a Bushcamper 4WD vehicle
for the duration of our stay. We collected the vehicle from
the Britz Cairns branch which is located only 5 minutes from
the airport. A 4WD vehicle meant that we could access pristine
wilderness areas to the North.
Kim
Anderson and Leeann show off a lure caught jack from the freshwater.
Rafting Adventures
Cairns is not only renowned for its 1000lb plus black marlin,
giant trevally and queenfish but also the gin clear rainforest
streams that hold something special for the angler.
For a completely different fishing trip, we hooked up with
Kim Anderson to partake in a fishing expedition in the freshwater,
by raft. Yes, the ones they use for white water rafting but
we were to fish the vessel in tranquil, calm waters for sooty
grunter, jungle perch, barramundi and mangrove jacks.
Jumping into the raft from the bank took me back to my childhood
days at the local fete where the blow up jumping castle would
always attract my attention. I knew from the start I was going
to really enjoy this day on the water.
Under the propulsion of a small outboard and the use of oars,
Kim manoeuvred the raft downstream from our drop off point.
We saved our casts for areas which were prominent fish holding
points: eddies, deep water, and snags. If the overhanging
of a tree provided shade in these areas, all the better.
The day started reasonably slow with our casts being ignored
by the fish. However, as time went by and the temperature
increased, I was the lucky first to bring a fish to the boat.
My cast landed the lure underneath a canopy of bushes in deep
water. The first twitch of the lure was responded to immediately
and a subsequent hookup occurred. Fortunately the fish made
its way into the clearer water midstream away from the snags
where I managed to land a solid mangrove jack.
The
fish was photographed and promptly released. Further snags
and fishy looking waters beckoned us as we continued our way
downstream.
Barramundi
are regularly caught over the summer months in the streams
surrounding Cairns.
We glided effortlessly over
shallow waters with the raft providing a simply perfect means
of negotiating the river. We took in the every-changing environment
of rainforest-clad hills to the rolling green fields of sugarcane
and agreed that even for a non-angler, the trip would still
be enjoyable.
Casting periodically at prime areas heralded the crew on board
with more feisty mangrove jacks and finally, our sooty grunter,
barramundi and jungle perch.
As the water was so clear, lures up to 5cm in the natural
colours of brown, gold and silver were used. A slow, jerky
retrieval meant the lure stayed within the strike zone for
a longer period of time, enhancing the chance of a hookup.
The Tilsan Bass in Brown and the Rapala suspending minnows
in gold and silver proved successful on the day.
The
water clarity provided the perfect view of the lure action
and the fish in hot pursuit of their quarry. On many occasions,
more than one fish would follow the lure almost to the raft
before they turned away and returned to cover.
There
are many places along the Captain Cook Highway to pull over
to appreciate the views.
We relaxed substantially as
the day progressed. Between casting at various hot spots along
the river, we leisurely sat back and enjoyed the scenic views
in which the tropical north is famous for.
By and large, the river offered a pleasant and calm journey
interrupted occasionally by the odd mini rapid which added
a different dimension to the trip. Skeletons of old rail and
road bridges provided additional fish holding structure and
another interesting obstacle to negotiate the raft through.
Kim has at hand a host of freshwater streams in the vicinity
of Cairns to fish and varies trips accordingly to anglers
needs. Best time of year to fish the freshwater is during
the warmer summer months.
Cape
Tribulation and the Bloomfield River
Not all of our time was spent fishing and our itinerary
allowed for a couple of days to explore the wilderness area
to the North of Cairns. Although Cairns itself has an abundance
of natural rainforest habitat on its doorstep, the allurement
of Cape Tribulation to the North was just too great.
The drive along the ever changing and very scenic Captain
Cook Highway took us past the Port Douglas turnoff, through
Mossman and towards the Daintree River Ferry.
A creek crossing
for old times sake. Roads are fully sealed from the ferry
to Cape Tribulation.
Various detours were made
throughout the journey to explore a few of the freshwater
creeks located off the main highway. Most of the creeks supported
fish life and a mental note was made to come back at a later
date to target the jungle perch in these waters.
We also spoilt ourselves by stopping to purchase fresh exotic
fruit direct from the farm. No fruit in a city supermarket
could compare with the delicious and flavoursome fruits we
consumed during our stay.
The ferry trip across to the northern side of the Daintree
River highlighted the popularity of the Daintree and its World
Heritage Rainforest. A number of sightseeing boats could be
seen working their way up and down the river. The ferry itself
was loaded with eco/4WD vehicles and a multitude of hire vehicles.
In addition, the road to Cape Tribulation is now full bitumen
which means even those in 2WD vehicles have easy access to
the area. Robert remembered the last time he visited the area
in the 70s when the track was dirt and the road more
difficult to negotiate.
Possibly
taking away from the "wilderness experience" was
the number of accommodation houses, cafes, shops, caravan
parks and information outlets situated all the way to Cape
Tribulation. Accommodation including camping grounds, backpacker
hostels and resort style accommodation is available to suit
every travellers needs.
A
level vehicle makes for a comfortable nights sleep.
A rock under the tyre can quickly alter unlevel vehicles.
However, you must simply leave
the car to experience the splendour of some of the worlds
oldest rainforests. Walking tracks abound and time should
be set aside to marvel at the pristine wilderness away from
the main road.
Guided rainforest tours are available through the Daintree
Environmental Centre (for a fee) which allows wildlife enthusiasts
the chance to really appreciate what they are viewing. Ascending
the Rainforest Canopy Tower is included in the price of the
tour.
Besides the obligatory meander through the rainforest tracks,
it is also a must to stop and enjoy the panoramic views from
the roadside lookouts. Take the time to walk the many unspoilt
beaches. Boardwalks are common and make for an easy stroll
though the vegetation. Information boards have been provided
outlining details of history, habitat and flora and fauna
of the area. All areas of interest are well signed.
We lunched at Myall Beach which has a great park, BBQ facilities,
fresh water, restrooms and walking tracks.
We stopped briefly at Cape Tribulation to take in the views
before making a start on the Bloomfield Track, a 4WD only
track to the Bloomfield River.
The
Bloomfield Track, almost a pure wilderness experience. The
family sedans are left behind at Cape Tribulation and the
adventure begins. The now dirt road takes travellers up and
down many steep hills (some have been concreted for safety
reasons), through clear mountain streams and more amazing
tropical rainforests.
Creek crossings
are common along the way.
4WD didnt need to be
engaged but we did get down to first gear ascending the hills.
This is not the place to be travelling after rain as the roads
become dangerously treacherous. It is not uncommon for vehicles
to end up sliding down hills, sometimes with disastrous results.
During the dry season, the track is quite safe though you
do have to slow down for the potholes, corrugation and creek
crossings.
As we neared the Bloomfield River and the end of the Bloomfield
Track, we had a laugh at being diverted through a paddock
of cows due to road works. Ahh
"the wilderness"!
With darkness settling in, we decided to camp beside the Bloomfield
River and made ourselves comfortable for a good nights rest.
Obviously we were travelling in our accommodation as the Britz
4WD campervan provides a sleeping capacity for three persons.
Oh
yes, for a good nights sleep, make sure the vehicle
is level. A piece of wood or rock under the tyre will do the
trick. A glass filled with water is the perfect guide to check
your level.
Half the
adventure is just getting there.
The next day we turned around
to journey back to Cairns spending time to walk a few of the
creeks as well as exchange tales with fellow travellers.
We travelled exactly 333km from our starting point at Clifton
Beach to the Bloomfield River and back to Clifton Beach. The
highlights of Cape Tribulation can be discovered during the
course of a day. If travelling to the Bloomfield River, allow
an extra day to really appreciate the amazing landscape.
For the angler, common northern fish species including the
Barramundi and Mangrove Jack can be caught in the Bloomfield
River and the Daintree River. There are limited opportunities
in between these rivers to wet a line. During our travels,
the beaches were unfishable due to windy conditions. Of course,
Jungle Perch are prevalent in most freshwater creeks.
Our Britz
The Britz 4WD Campervan is a reliable Toyota 4WD, a home away
from home with simple luxuries provided including a fridge,
cooking utensils, gas stove (& cylinder), sink, hand held
shower as well as pillows and sleeping bags.
You can quite comfortably stand in the back of the vehicle
whilst preparing meals. The vehicle has bedding for three,
one double bed (2m x 1.3m) and a single bed (1.9m X 1m).
Long range fuel tanks means there is no need to constantly
visit service stations.
Leeann Payne
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FACT
BOX - Cairns, the Daintree and Cape Tribulation
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| For
information and bookings on accommodation, fishing charters,
sightseeing and adventure packages and general information
contact: |
Cairns
Travel & Sportfishing Pty Ltd
P.O. Box 231 F
Freshwater Qld 4870
Shop at: Marlin Marina,
Telephone: 07 4031 6016
Fax: 07 4031 6061
Email: info@cairns travel.com.au
Website: http:www.cairnstravel.com.au |
Cairns
Fishing Charters:
Kim Anderson Sport Fishing Charters
P.O. Box 231
Edmonton Qld 4869
Telephone: 07 4054222
Fax: 07 4054 2322
Mobile: 0408 187 291 |
Daintree
Fishing Charters:
Daintree River Fishing & Photography Tours
David Patterson
P.O. Box 448
Mossman Qld 4873
Phone: 07 4090 7776
Fax: 07 4090 7660
Mobile: 0412 341 098 |
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