|fish’n’tip 0655 a cracking new technique for trout part 2 with rob paxevanos
Dated: 21 September, 2012
|Trout have large aggressive mounths and often respond to techniques engineered to suit. |
Rob’s weekly FISH’N’TIP 0655 written for the week of Wednesday 19/9/2012
Last week I looked at how sending a violent pulse down to your lure when fishing for trout in lakes can increase your catch rates 10 fold in some scenarios. I now look at why this happens.
VISUAL EXAMPLES OF WHAT’S ACTUALLY HAPPENING
Polaroding, particularly off higher vantage points like dam walls or steep banks, is where I made some major observations in the cracking lure/energy puzzle.
Roughly speaking, when leading a cruising trout with a hard body minnow lure, most guides, myself included, advise to cast 2 to 3 meters ahead and 2 to 3 meters beyond its line of travel. This gives you room to pull the lure into the sight of the trout without the splash spooking the fish in the first place, and it works well.
Long since gaining experience polaroiding trout I have had the luxury of purposely casting slightly away from sighted fish and then watching what ‘cracking’ the lure does.
As expected, most of the time the extra pulse in the lure grabs the trouts attention from a fair way off and they swim over with their dinner bib on.
This is the guts of this technique. When you can’t Polaroid fish, eg when windy, overcast, trolling, loch style spinning (see later) etc you simply crack the lure and confidently assume that any trout within range will investigate.
I’ve often seen a strong crack turn a trouts attention to a lure from as far as 5 to 10 meters away, but waves on lakes or faster water in rivers often shortens this maximum distance considerably-this is because both scenarios are noisier underwater to start with.
Start thinking about the vibrations and water energy each time you fish and you will become a much better angler.
As a rough general rule, in lakes, my friends and I now give the lure a good crack at least every 5 or so meters followed by the more standard twitching retrieve to further tease any fish drawn over for a look. You don’t need to go too hard once a fish has slotted in behind the lure...although often you get no say; they smack it with a full speed run up attack -this happens a lot in clear water!
Sending a strong cracking pulse down to your lure is even more important during low light conditions, or in murky water where trout can’t see as far.
This doesn’t mean you will start filling a boat with trout in 5 minutes flat, but is does mean you will increase your catch rates significantly, much to the surprise of those onboard who haven’t cottoned on yet.
WHEN TO EASE UP
Larger cod style rattling lures worked hard will attract trout, but seem to be a little too loud when more closely inspected by our spotted friends, and the big hooks are much harder to set on trout rods too.
It is the ‘hey over here’ and then ‘try and find me now’ use of standard sized trout lures that works best-but even then you need to consider the circumstances.
Effectively, if you spot a trout, know exactly where it lives, have watched it patrol a defined beat, or the water is more confined and quite (eg a small slow river pool), always start with a much more subtle retrieve first-eg a slow roll, fast burn or some subtle twitches.
If all the ‘quieter’ retrieves fail, you can get more aggressive later- a big crack first up in these scenarios might only work by having a spooked trout beach itself if fright!
But back to the lakes, it’s these bigger bodies of water where the aggressive cracking technique works best.
Next week I’ll look at an additional technique that ties in with the aggressive retrieve, and it is sure to see you have an incredible time on the trout this spring. I also cover these same techniques on my latest dvd available at www.robpax.com and tackle stores.
Click here to view part I...
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