Grey 3D Mullet Baitfish Saltwater Hook : 3407 No.2. Thread : Monocord. Wing : Silver gray marabou. Eyes : Optional (recommended). Body : Flashabou twisted around shank w/portion left as lower wing. Head : Silver grey wool stacked over one clump of white, the remainder silver grey spun and trimmed to shape. Weedguard : Optional. Weight : Optional
Tying Instructions 1) Place hook in vise, start thread mid shank, wrap back to the bend. 2) Take 10-20 strands of flash material and tie in by their tips so the remainder extends beyond bend. 3) Wind thread to initial tie in point. 4) Wrap the flash material tightly around shank passing back and forth from the bend to the thread until body is as thick as you prefer and there is still a portion of the flash for the bottom wing. 5) Make a couple turns around the flash to lock in place and cause remainder to extend back past the bend. 6) Tie in a full silver Grey marabou plume so it extends 1-1/2 times the length of the hook shank tie in tightly and add a half hitch. 7) Trim butt ends of the feather and add a drop of glue if you wish. 8) Take the silver Grey wool (sculpin wool brand name) and peel off a section of it about twice as big around as a pencil. 9) Cut off a section about 3/4 inch (19mm) long lay on top of the shank centered over the thread and take a wrap in the center, let thread hang. 10) Take another piece of wool of a lighter color and wrap it on the bottom of the shank directly beneath the silver Grey, make 2 wraps of thread pulling tightly. 11) The wool should be Grey on top, light on bottom and should not move when tightened, pull front portion back compressing wool towards the back of the hook and take two wraps in front of the wool locking it in place. 12) Now take a new portion of the silver Grey wool 3/4" (19mm) and push into the hook shank over the existing wool from the bottom or side until approx. half of the wool is left make two wraps of thread in the middle. 13) Then push the wool in front back against itself compressing tightly, make two turns of thread in front of wool. 14) Continue this process until you have wool tightly packed all the way to the eye of the hook. Each section of wool added can be slightly shorter than the one before if desired. 15) Take a bodkin or other pointed tool and pick out the wool until the head is fluffed as large as it can get. Begin trimming to shape a little at a time until you get the desired effect and profile you are looking for. 16) Add pre made eyes if preferred after the head has been shaped completely. 17) Pick the location for the eyes and clip out a slight indentation where the eyes are to go. Apply Goop or other strong waterproof cement to the back of the eyes and place into indentation. 18) Marking pens can be used to add highlights, such as gills, lateral lines or barring on the sides of the pattern.
Fly Notes Weight can be added for a faster sinking fly.
Fishing Notes This fly can be used to fish from bottom to top easily. If you wish to fish it on top add a water repellant to the wool and it will float. To fish below the surface but not at the bottom cast a tightly packed fly when it is dry and it will work this area until it becomes water logged. To fish deep take the fly and presoak with water before casting. These flies can be fished on any type of fly line effectively, shorten leaders and tippets if you plan on fishing with sinking lines. If you are fishing a very weedy bottom try fishing a full sink line with about 3-6 ft (1-2 m) leader and a treated floating fly. Work slowly along the bottom stripping line as needed to keep fly close to the bottom. Target species include any fish that feed on small baitfish eg flathead, bream, trevally, mangrove jack, pelagics, tuna.
Location Notes
Prey Notes This patterns can imitate any fish fairly easily by changing the trimmed head to suit. This particular fly covers two of my favorite baitfish, the mullet and shad, making it effective for both fresh and saltwater here in the States.
Tier Robert Morger

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