| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
Hydro_boy
Joined: 10 Jan 2012
Posts: 474
|
 Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 5:47 pm Post subject: Re: |
 |
|
| spearo766 wrote: |
if you can i'd also recommend soldering and heat shrinking all ends. takes a bit more time but well worth it.
also for trailer wires, solder joints then smear natural/neutral cure silicone over the join and then heat shrink. this will be a waterproof connection and will last for years. |
Instead of silicon, has anyone used liquid electrical tap. Just bought tube of it to do the same as above and just wondering if anyone has any experiance with it. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Freakish
Joined: 01 Jan 2007
Posts: 596
|
| Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 1:45 am Post subject: |
|
|
Its more for covering end product wiring but no reason whynot i guess..just not as good.
Glue lined heatshrink (epoxy lined) is terrific stuff coz not just w/proofs but stiffens the connection/crimp...and vv simple/quick to use.
One thing u can also use to achieve the same is the old Araldite. It was one of the original epoxies specifically formulated for electrical work/exterior w/proofing electricals. Became a kind of all round household name glue over 50-100 yrs of use and now people forget what it was originally meant for....just mix some up and have at the ready and smear on the connection before covering in heatshrink and heating...you'll find it oozes out each end the same way. Works same way to w/proof and stiffen connection against vibration/stretching.
In wetter areas or places that might cop a hosing (after proper w/proof connections) you can wrap the wiring in self amalgamating tape/welding tape..the stuff you need to stretch before wrapping around on itself. This sets it solid and adds moisture/vibration/wproofing. Works.
Use ring connectors as much as u can to any screw type connections...not only better but its actually a 12V safety/first warning that something is failing/loose coz usually will start to flicker/on/off intermittently and need looking at.
Those blueseas 6 an 12 gang fusebox/bus units are terrific small boat kit...combined with carlingswitch its about as good as u get. Use minimum 6mm. If using fridge/anchor winch type heavy drawing stuff or if its a long run from battery use 8mm from batt to fusebox/dash/buses. Rest of the wiring can be 4mm unless some form of electrical motor (winches/fridges/bigger bilge pumps etc) involved which are usually the biggest drawing items on boats...apart from maybe a doof doof sound system. Stuff like sounders/vhf/led lights/navs etc draw sweet fa and in many cases such as led's can go to lighter gauge than 4mm as distribution wiring. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
sharky_77
Joined: 22 Feb 2005
Posts: 121
|
| Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 3:17 pm Post subject: |
|
|
What is the main reason to crimp plugs/lugs to cables instead of soldering the cable to the plugs then heat shrink?
Is it due to corriosion in the solder or just ease of installation? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lodka
Joined: 28 May 2009
Posts: 881
|
| Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 4:20 pm Post subject: Re: |
|
|
| sharky_77 wrote: |
What is the main reason to crimp plugs/lugs to cables instead of soldering the cable to the plugs then heat shrink?
Is it due to corriosion in the solder or just ease of installation? |
The solder tracks down the cable and creats a stiff area. And with vibration it is a bit like bending a piece of wire a few to many times it will eventually crack or snap |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
