Bearing Buddy Removal Tool

JayyyyGee · Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 8:55 pm Post subject:

They only collect dust & crap

Only one type of grease to use
High temp

Wouldn't use marine grease, dont let the name fool you
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prod03 · Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 9:12 pm Post subject:

depending on your use (load,kms ) but you should get many years from a good set of bearings(from the brg shop not bcf)(made in japan are always good but some of the good brands are in europe)the biggest factor is if they get water in of course so check em as often as you like to keep an eye on em if they look good and you know how tight to do em youll be right.i prefer the big manufacturesrs (mobil castrol )high temp brg grease as jaygee said but if its recommened for bearings go for it if it works it works

mattg · Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 10:32 pm Post subject: Re:

ironmaiden · Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 4:56 am Post subject: Re:

Noelm1 · Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 2:15 pm Post subject:

I still use them, and I am pretty slow on maintenance, just give them a pump with the grease gun now and then and my bearings are still good after years of neglect (mind you, I dont do long distances either) but a shagged bearing will go for ages as long as it has got grease in it, the problems arise when there is nothing but rust to lubricate the bearing.

seachief1 · Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 5:37 pm Post subject:

Too all concerned.
Removing the bearing buddies for inspection of the bearings etc. is as easy as using a large pair of multi grips and grabbing the bearing buddy and simply leavering from side to side, will come out easy. As previously mentioned, put some small notches/marks on the outter edge of the buddy when reinserting, helps to keep them in place.
There is a number of contributing factors too bearing life. Inproper adjustment, either too tight or too loose. A correctly adjusted bearing should have no preload and no endfloat. Lack of lubricant or incorrect grade. Wheel bearings require a high temp grease, therefor should use one that stats that. Moisture inside the hub (damaged seal, short runs to and from the ramp and even submerging the hub into the water when the hub is hot) to name a few.
The idea of the bearing buddy, if used and maintained correctly is too maintain positive pressure on the grease inside the hub to the bearing and therefor too keep out water (will not stop moisture thoe). As the piston slides in add more grease. Be careful thoe not too overfill cause this can pop the rear hub seal out. (stop just before the piston bottoms out).
I jack my wheels up after every trip and check the bearings (a round trip for me thoe is usually 1500ks).
I hope this helps, with these few ideas.
Cheers Graeme

ironmaiden · Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 4:23 am Post subject:

These are probably no use but when you’re doing big k's it adds for peace of mind. They are tow ball covers that squeeze on nice & tight over bearing buddy. I think 8-10 bucks each.

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fishman6 · Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 7:39 pm Post subject:

bearing buddies are easily removed by any of the above mentioned methods and unless you beat the crap out of them they can most often be reused...

The easiest way to do it with out wrecking anything is to jack up the wheel and rotate it whilst hitting the bearing buddy with a rubber mallet.

Spinning it makes sure that...
a) you don't gouge the hub by hitting the buddy too far in one direction and,
b) you don't take chunks out of your mallet from taking swings at funny angles!
slow and steady wins the race...

when re-installing...

The buddy should be easy to knock in to position but hard to knock all the way home.

If it is, it will be fine.

The rear seal is often the main issue due to poor machining of hub or axle.
(and also people pumping too much into a bearing buddy)

As mentioned only pump until they are almost full...
make sure grease isnt spewing out the back of the hub past the seal.

I have used lithium grease for years with zero issues.
Even on a very long trip the hubs are cooler than the tyres...

I like the look of the dura hubs with the oil... haven't had to fix one with water in it yet. Axle machining is critical here...

At least one trailer manufacturer sends their trailers out with durahubs and hight temp grease in them. Which seems to work.

I personally like the idea of a spring pushing grease through the hub or a less viscous oil contained in the hub with a window for easy assessment over the plain steel caps.

I believe it makes maintenance easier (and more likely to happen) for the lazy and less mechanically inclined.

Just my 2c

frozenpod · Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 8:16 pm Post subject:

The oil filled hubs available in the mid 90's (sea bears I think they were called) were great until something went wrong.

When they dveloped an issue the oil leaked out in 30 seconds and the bearings were wrecked to the point of smoking hot and sometimes seized wheels very quickly.

I hope the dura hubs are better.

spearo766 · Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 4:35 pm Post subject:

to me, the most crucial part of the bearing/hub setup is the seal at the back of your hub. 9 times out of 10 water has entered through this seal on my trailer. as jaygee said just use high temp bearing grease, i use castrol, and temken bearings, they seem to have been the best for me. i carry a complete hub with bearings already packed in it in a bucket with a lid, also some rags ,hammer and big shifter,just incase of those midnight roadside nightmares. it makes life a whole lot easier.
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