Tip for pouring foam ,use polystyrene boxes from the market
No good @ all
Chemical reaction from urathane will disolve styrene b4 your eyes may work if styrene box is lined with plastic sheeting
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plastic bags heat welded to seal from water logging
Hate that system plastic bags dont last they rip & water gets it making it worse cause moisture is traped in plastic
Copped that in last purchased goat flotation was that water logged it wasn't funny
I glass the floation actually started glass'n today
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Question , is your coffer damn sealed from fore and aft compartments?
Nope water can run through entire hull hull will be a wet deck & login behind the way i do floatation is simple
I pack it in wall to wall on the frames hence the cradles only cavity is 60mm off hull skin figure even if i hit something out @ sea & split the hull only a minimal amount of water can get in due to the volume of flotation
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strainer going over bait tank outlet??
No strainer have a better system just have to wait till i get around to making it
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Can I ask why not using the sheets of foam? is it a cost thing?
It's actually more expensive doing it the way i am liquid aint cheap but to save on the liquids i'm using upall scrap off cuts in the cradle to make up the volume _________________ **************************
Save The Fish, Eat a Pussy Cat
Bear in mind when i work, i work alone hence my methods will differ to what some may know when it comes to a project like this
I have to pre think everything including how to sheet frame etc unasisted having this workshop makes it so much easier
I'm pretty good @ making a mess
Not all in the pic but floation cut into blocks with niche's etc cut into them allowing for fuel lines, etc etc
This was the udder day nearly got them all glass'd up know
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The hull i pre cut via mdf templates but sides i dont full sheet goes on & explained later how i trim to shape
When working on your own holding things into place becomes difficult @ times not that clear in pic but i tack weld short bits of angle where needed to get vice grips/clamps a fastening point in this case lining up the nose
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Everything welded up it's triming time
If you look @ bottom of sheet you'll notice a 13mm hole every 400mm apart these holes go entire length of sheet & what i secure a ratchet strap to in order to pull sheet tight up against spray chine when welding.
After which a router with a tracer wheel is used to trim off excess so side skin sits flush with spray chine ready for exterior welding when i flip goat over
Router cuts are visible in pic
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Love this toy it's a self leveling lazer level shoot's lines both vertical & horizontally
Gave me cut for nose which was done prior to 2nd sheet being welded on
Gave me lines when cutting gunel hight & the 150mm rise on fore deck
All this is in relation to what i said early in thread
I'm not working with plans other than the frames
I make my own lines as i'm going along & one of the reasons i dont pre cut side skins
Texta is used to draw in a multiple of variations & when i've got one i'm happy with that's the one i cut to
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Internal view of goat
I tack on braces, cross braces etc
They are what stops everthing from moving/deviating from my marks braces hold everything true
Next pic port side with bottom not trimed yet
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Starboard side all trimed up
Copped reflective sots on pic for those wanting to jump in & accuse my goat of having some form of desease
Last pic
Dont like tranny's hanging off transom so ido them this way
Make a box when time comes screw up tranny to required level & seal it in with this wonderfull product called SIKAFLEX
I also recomend it on leaky fuel tanks
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Save The Fish, Eat a Pussy Cat
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