Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 8:57 pm Post subject: Re:
bwana wrote:
Just a question JG, did you grind off welds at chine and keel?.
Ive seen plenty do this and cant see the sense in it.
Regards John
After working with stainless virtually all my working life tis automatic i dont give it a 2nd thought even though welds look pretty just my preference i like the smooth finished look
Dont take long to do so so why not _________________ **************************
Save The Fish, Eat a Pussy Cat
Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:11 pm Post subject: Re:
Echunda wrote:
Well done Mate!!!
I hope this isn't intrusive or you've already outlined it in one of the 35 pages but how much have you budgeted for the build?
I'm not the sort of person who sits down & budgets for a project, if i get something in my head i just go ahead & do it cause no matter what cost will be i'll still be way ahead had i opted to purchased ready built.
Haven't done any maths prob spent around $13 k so far with everthing paid for that includes all the alloy, gas's mig wire etc & the completed trailer included in that figure
Bear in mind i know how to buy & get well looked after where ever i go
Prob a few more thou to spend + motor _________________ **************************
Save The Fish, Eat a Pussy Cat
Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:26 pm Post subject: Re:
Pelagic Boats wrote:
JayyyyGee wrote:
opti
If proffesional boat builders had the talent i have they wouldn't be relying on router precut panels to slap their tubs together
Even when they get those panels all pre cut they still F up
Jay your not doing anything out of the ordinary, boat builders have been building like this for years. and like you said if we where all to build boats this way they would be much more expensive. i know of a company over in WA that still builds boats this way from one set of scale drawings for every size & configuration hull, basically the same as what you have done with this build and im sure there is a lot more.
As for internal lay out and fit out these parts can very easily be changed to customers specs its no big deal really get the hull to a stage, invite the customer down for the day and go over every aspect and build what they want, its an ally boat, no restrictions with dash layout, storage ect ect.
CNC cutting is the industry standard its cost effective, accurate and a much more efficient way to build a boat.
As for bogging, I hate it, we have never done it and and I wont allow it on any of our boats full stop.
1st of all my comment was directed @ opti
I have never claimed 2b a boat builder and mentioned quite a few times i was not impressed with what i saw @ a so called proffessional boat builders shop nor what i was getting for my $'s a few years back when in market for new hull
So had a brain explosion & decided to build my own so called boat builder said to me i'd have a no name boat to which i replied
2 least i wont have 15 mm gaps covered by gunnel channel
You pro's cant do what i do cause if you did you'd be working for love & not money & go broke very quickly
Pics i post dont show any of the detail i go to dosen't take much for me to analise how other goats are built hence why i often throw comment out there a certain brand of boat is a budget build _________________ **************************
Save The Fish, Eat a Pussy Cat
Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 12:17 am Post subject: Re:
opti wrote:
well we can all see the difference between a professionally built plate boat and a back yarder in those pics ,wtf happened
imop cut that dash out and start again.
and those welds are you serious
goin to have to change the name now to shitty shitty bang bang crack
Just grinding away the strength of the weld I would have thought, (as the best shipwright plate builder I know of has confirmed), as its not an area that's looked at all day to annoy you .I know most do for aesthetics only.
Yeah but i'm not doing what you think i'm doing john
Mentioned it quite a few times in thread dont try & access what i'm doing via pics i get home tired when posting & not in the mood to rely detailed comentary of how i've done things
Examples
That keel you're refering to it's done differently to what boat builders do their method was on original plans i had years ago the ones i threw out
I lock hull skins fully weld inside & on outer surface grind back outer weld as it's only cosmetic strength is in the inner weld
Once that is done a 50mm x 6 mm flat bar is welded full length inside hull locking the hull skins together as well 2wards aft very little gap between flat bar & skins & that's where it't important cause it's resting point on tailer cavity increases as you progress forwaed naturally but so does the V gap between the keel flat bar & the hull skins
Aft i chamber the lat bar in turn what this does is allows weld to really bite in so when you dress thatt weld you're not really touching it nor effecting it's strength & it's just a matter of runniing a 40 grit flap wheel over the welds to take off all the high spots
Wheel itself forms a radius so you end up with that nice rounded look with welds fully in tact
Same goes with with hull skins welded to chies hull skins they are all fully welded internally the out welds are only cosmetic & there's no probs shaving them back as they are not important
Gunnels again are fully fillet welded to side skins those welds dont get touched when i weld coving to gunnels i allow a 4mm gap in turn this allows filler wire to really penetrate in those welds can look a wee bit untidy cause in places i may have to go over them again a 2nd time to fill & build them up so i dont have to use bog end result is what was in that pic of gunnel & why i get annoyed with all the proffesors trying to pick @ my workmanship
Had they asked instead of babbled on i would've explained how it was done _________________ **************************
Save The Fish, Eat a Pussy Cat
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