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Rigging with Lead-Cored Line for Trolling

Preparing the Lead-Cored line for rigging - Part 1


Lead-Cored line is used by anglers who want to troll their bait or lure substantially below the surface without additional paraphernalia like down-rigging weights or paravanes.

Lead-Cored line consists of a continuous strand of lead wire inside a hollow, braided, dacron line. The dacron is coloured coded with a colour change every ten yards (9 metres) so the angler knows how much line is out.

Lead-Cored dacron lines come in various sizes from 12 pounds (5.5 kg) to 45 pounds (21 kg) breaking strain. The lead wire remains the same for all line sizes so the lighter gauge Lead-Cored lines will run deeper than the heavier ones, that's provided trolling speed, leader and lure size remain the same.

Lead-Cored lines work best when loop-spliced at both ends. One end being attached to the backing, or fishing line already on he reel, the other end being attached to a monofilament leader several metres long which can also be wound onto the reel. The lure or baited hook is attached to this leader.

Materials:

Needle: A fine gauge Top Shot loop-splicing needle - or a length of .014" (0.356 mm) - stainless wire bent double to form a needle. Glue: Superglue or Top Shot Supertac.
1. Expose the lead core and push the dacron back to expose around 25 cm or 10 inches of wire. Be careful doing this though because there is no strength in the wire; it will break if handled roughly.
2. Cut, or break off, the exposed length of lead wire.
3. Extend the dacron sleeve to its former position. This will leave you with 25 cm or so of hollow dacron to make your first loop splice.
4. About 10 cm (4 inches) from where the lead core finishes, push your Top Shot loop-splicing needle into the weave toward the remaining lead core and thread the eye with the dacron tag. Naturally, should you be using piece of bent wire, you will have to work - eye first - in the opposite direction.
5. Work your Top Shot loop-splicing needle all the way up to where the lead wire ends, but put a loop gauge, or pencil as I have done, into the loop so that it won't close completely.
6. Withdraw your loop-splicing needle and dacron tag taking care that the tag does not slide back inside the dacron sleeve.
7. Smear the tag with glue, bearing in mind the nature of the glue you are using: Superglue and Supertac require minimal application. slow curing glues more liberal application
8. Slide the dacron down quickly so the glued tag slides inside and bonds.

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